46 minute read

The Ultimate Washington Golf Road Trip

Nobody could possibly play every great destination course in the state in one crazy trip ... could they?

BY BRIAN BEAKY CG EDITOR

For the past decade, I’ve dreamed of leading my fellow Cascade Golfer cohorts on the greatest golf road trip any of us have ever conceived. We’d take 3-4 weeks off, rent an RV, and drive to all corners of our great state, playing 18 to 36 holes a day, with occasional breaks to sight-see, taste wine, hike a local trail, kayak on a lake, and otherwise enjoy all the impossibly glorious activities our state has to offer.

In a typical year, we’ll take 1-2 longer trips, either across the mountains (to Central and Eastern Washington, Idaho or Montana) or to B.C., Oregon, Mesquite, Hawaii or other favorite destinations. That means that, in any given year, we’ll play maybe 4-5 of the incredible destination tracks scattered across Washington and the Northwest.

Imagine instead, though, knocking off as many as 50 of those courses in one trip, hitting Bellingham, Chelan, Suncadia, Apple Tree, Wine Valley, Moses Pointe, Palouse Ridge and the Spokane munis, with a quick dip across the border to Coeur d’Alene and Circling Raven. Along the way, we’d pop into many of the smaller tracks that are often left off the itineraries of hurried travelers eager to hit the big-name courses, places like Leavenworth, Kahler Glen, Sun Country, Desert Aire, Alta Lake and the like. Shoot, we’d even finally have time to turn off the highway and play nine holes at those little podunk courses that you stumble upon on any cross-state drive and think, “Geez, I’ve never even heard of that one.” (Yes, that happens to us, too.) With a month to spare and a state packed with great courses at every turn, we’d never be in a hurry.

I called it “The Ultimate Washington Golf Trip,” and in our editorial meetings, I’d pitch it as not only being a heck of a story for Cascade Golfer, but also a bucket-list trip for any of us lucky enough to secure a spot in the RV.

Now, you have probably figured out by now that this trip has never happened. While editors are always focused on “the next big story,” publishers and sales reps have to think about things like budgets, while wives and families are concerned with things like “responsibilities” and “being present” and, “Are you thinking about golf again? I’m trying to talk to you here.”

So, maybe taking a month off to tour the state isn’t realistic — especially if, unlike the staff of Cascade Golfer, your job isn’t to visit and write about golf courses all day. I get it.

That’s why, in this article, we’ve taken that month-long itinerary and pared it down into three, distinct, seven-day journeys — one to the Peninsula; one up north, doing the better part of the North Cascade Loop, including Bellingham, Chelan and Leavenworth; and, the most ambitious (but possibly most rewarding) of all, an Eastern Washington journey through Moses Pointe, Spokane, Coeur d’Alene, Circling Raven, Palouse Ridge, Wine Valley and Apple Tree, with as much par-making and Pinot-drinking as you can handle.

In each trip, we’ve added some optional excursions you can take to extend or enhance your journey, given your time, budget, interest and willingness to adventure. And, of course, we’ve made it easy to link all three trips into one, starting on the Peninsula and making your way east — the Ultimate Washington Golf Trip that we’ve always dreamed of, and never had the stones (or the money, or the time, or the permission) to actually take.

Maybe you’ll be luckier than we’ve been. Maybe you’ll fulfill what’s only ever been a dream for us.

Maybe you’ll be the one who finally feels what it’s like to live free.

TRIP 1: Border to Bavaria

TOTAL TIME: 7 Days

DRIVING DISTANCE: 509 miles

Loomis Trail Golf Club, Blaine

Loomis Trail Golf Club, Blaine

If we were only going to do one of these trips, this would be the one. The fact is that the golf is going to be great no matter which trip you take. When you’re putting together The Ultimate Golf Road Trip, however, you have to consider the “road” part as well — and, on this trip, nearly every section of that road will take your breath away.

We start on DAY 1 with a drive up I-5 to Whatcom County, which just may be Washington’s most under-appreciated golf hotbed. Sure, everyone knows about Loomis Trail (and Semiahmoo, if you’re staying at the resort or you’ve got someone on the inside), but there’s also courses like Shuksan, Homestead Farms, North Bellingham, Sudden Valley, Lake Padden, Raspberry Ridge and others — all tucked within about a 20-mile radius of downtown Bellingham. And, because it doesn’t draw out-of-town vacationers the way Central or Eastern Washington do, greens fees are lower than they would be elsewhere — usually no more than $50 — while fairways are significantly less crowded. We certainly wouldn’t blame you if you wanted to forgo the rest of the trip and just park yourself in Bellingham for a long weekend — we’ve done so ourselves, and it’s one of our favorite in-state getaways.

But, that’s not what we’ve set out to do here. Instead, Skagit County is merely our first stop — so, we’d better get to work. The first round of our epic journey is a late-morning round at Loomis Trail, the one must-play course for any Skagit County visitor. Laden with creeks, ponds and streams (that are often hidden from view — pair yourself with a local, or ask in the pro shop for tips), it’s a true test of target golf, with a handful of risk-reward opportunities to keep you coming back for more. Ranked No. 5 in the state by Golfweek (and No. 19 by CG readers, though tops in the “North” region), it’s the perfect way to start your week-long adventure.

After the round, grab a drink in Washington’s coolest clubhouse, styled after an English Tudor mansion, then choose from any of the terrific tracks listed above for your second 18 of the day — at twilight rates, to boot. With the sun starting to dip low towards Bellingham Bay, say goodbye to the eagles and deer that accompanied you around the course, grab dinner in Bellingham’s Fairhaven Historic District, then tuck in for a good night’s sleep — because you have 36 more holes on tap tomorrow.

Sudden Valley Golf Course, Bellingham

Sudden Valley Golf Course, Bellingham

The SECOND DAY of this trip is a simple one — pick two more Skagit County tracks and have at it. You can’t go wrong with any of the ones we listed above; for reference sake, our readers ranked Loomis, Shuksan, Homestead Farms and North Bellingham as the region’s four best in 2019.

DAY 3 is when the real adventure begins. It’s also a rest day of sorts — after backto-back 36-hole days, you’ve earned it.

Start by heading south to Mount Vernon (feel free to jump off the road and put in 18 at Avalon, if you so choose) and jumping on Highway 20 east, then prepare yourself for one of the prettiest drives you’ll ever make. The North Cascades Scenic Byway, as it’s called, is the northern section of the famed Cascade Loop — a mind-blowing 400-mile drive that, by the end of the week, you’ll have seen every inch of. Stop in at the Cascadian Farm roadside stand in Marblemount for a double-dip of ice cream before heading up into America’s least-visited National Park. Over the next two hours, you’ll pass turquoise-colored lakes; craggy, snow-capped peaks and enough roadside scenery to keep your head on a swivel.

Stop and take a hike if you want — the Pacific Crest Trail passes nearby, and there are numerous trails that lead to it, or down to one of the many lakes along the way. Stand atop Ross Dam as it sends its power down the mountains to Seattle. Linger at the scenic overlooks — we recommend the Diablo Lake overlook and Washington Pass overlook — to take pictures and soak up the views. On this trip, there are just as many memories to be made off the golf course as on it.

Spend the afternoon and evening in Winthrop (or at the nearby Sun Mountain Lodge, which offers incredible views of the valley and frequent black bear sightings), the Old West’s answer to Leavenworth. Reimagined in the 1970s as a pioneer town, Winthrop today is a blast from the past, with woodplank sidewalks, 19th-century storefronts and the oldest legal saloon in Washington state. Grab a beer or a whiskey, then find a place to bunk up and call it a night — because tomorrow, the real ride begins.

DAY 4 is the day that you’ve been waiting for, the day that you get to play the course ranked No. 1 in the state by Cascade Golfer readers in 2017, and No. 35 in America by Golf Digest — Gamble Sands.

Start with a coffee and cinnamon twisp from the eponymous Cinnamon Twisp Bakery in Twisp — trust us, you won’t regret it — then make your way southeast to Gamble Sands and prepare yourself for four hours of pure heaven. Fairways wider than a pair of 747s flying side-by-side, bounded by sandy waste areas deep enough to lose a battleship. Massive greens that pitch and roll, rewarding wellplaced approaches that take advantage of their natural features. And, everywhere you look, miles and miles of endless Cascade Mountain and Columbia River vistas. If you hadn’t figured it out yet, by Day 4, you’ll know for sure — you have truly managed to get away from it all.

Gamble Sands, Brewster

Gamble Sands, Brewster

For all of its natural beauty, Gamble’s best feature is David McLay Kidd’s design, which provides the savvy player with assistance on nearly every shot. Not a long driver? No worries — knock it 220 yards in the right direction on the par-4 fifth or par-5 18th holes, and your ball will run an extra 50-60 yards down the fairway, leaving you with a reasonable approach — or a chance to go for eagle. Wide fairways accommodate mid- and high-handicappers who struggle to control their driver, while the fairway bunkers are typically only in play for longer hitters, who also theoretically have the skill to avoid them. Nearly every green is open in front, allowing players to run balls up onto the green, while others feature Redan-style slopes or grasslined backstops ready to funnel a mis-hit approach toward the pin. It’s possible not to score well at Gamble, but you’ll really have to try. It’s not possible, though, to walk away disappointed.

If you want to, you can follow-up your round at Gamble with another trip around the course; or, a visit to the all-new short course, Quicksands, scheduled to open for limited preview rounds this fall. If you do stick around, and are spending the night at The Inn at Gamble Sands, then the 100,000-square foot Cascade Putting Course is a must, and a great place for a late-evening skins game to settle some bets. We, however, are grabbing lunch at Danny Boy Bar & Grill in the Gamble Sands clubhouse and then heading down Highway 97 to perhaps Central Washington’s most overlooked gem of a course, Alta Lake. The first course owned and managed by Don Barth — who would later purchase the much-more-acclaimed Bear Mountain Ranch and Desert Canyon, as well — Alta Lake has the same quality, views and setting as the region’s more celebrated courses, but with half the traffic and greens fees. Fully restored after the Carlton Complex Fire gutted course infrastructure in 2014, Alta Lake is known for its two-tiered greens and creative back nine, and is the perfect place to watch the sun set behind the mountains before calling it a night.

Alta Lake Golf Course, Alta Lake

Alta Lake Golf Course, Alta Lake

On DAY 5, it’s time to drive down into Washington’s favorite resort town, Chelan, for a day of golfing and whatever other recreation tickles your fancy. A morning round at Lake Chelan Golf Course — as the sun turns the surrounding hillsides the same purple shade as the wine grapes growing on their vines, and the clear, blue lake glistens below — will remind you why you put up with those dark, wet, cold winters every year. It’s because beauty like this is just a short drive away.

Despite its “muni” label, Lake Chelan offers plenty to test golfers of all abilities — at 6,430 yards from the tips, its blue tees are right in the wheelhouse of most men, while its 5,500-yard red tees are even a touch longer than the forward tees at many Western Washington tracks. In addition, its rating and slope — 71.2 and 126, respectively — belie the challenge the course presents to low- and high-handicappers alike. Much of that rating comes from Lake Chelan’s small, elevated greens, which combined with the breeze that blows steadily off the lake require an informed club selection, and precise shot execution. Trees and bunkers, while present, aren’t copious enough to restrict an average golfer from achieving a good score even with a little wildness, while the only real water hazard is more a distraction — in the form of the beautiful blue Lake Chelan stretching out as far as the eye can see to the west — than a threat.

As for the rest of the day — well, the world is your oyster. Boats, jet skis and other personal watercraft can be rented in town and taken out on the lake, while the city offers plenty of public beaches for those who simply want to take a dip without venturing too far out. If you have the family with you, or are just a kid at heart, the Slidewaters water park on the lake’s southwestern corner is a fantastic way to spend an afternoon — our favorite is Purple Haze, a completely enclosed slide that even travels partway underground for a portion of its journey from hilltop to the pool below. If you don’t have the kids, then we’d recommend spending the afternoon sampling some of the amazing wines being made in one of America’s fastest-growing wine regions. Benson Estate Vineyards, just up the road from the golf course, has one of the best Cabernet Francs we’ve ever tried, while the Syrahs at Nefarious Cellars, on the lake’s southern shore, can’t be beat.

Nefarious Cellars, Chelan

Nefarious Cellars, Chelan

Just when you’re starting to think you could live this vacation life forever, you wake up on DAY 6 and realize that, by tomorrow night, you’ll be tucking your head back into your own bed, at home. By now, it’s getting hard to even remember what “home” feels like — but, you know you’ll be a heck of a lot more relaxed when you get back to than you were when you left.

The good news is, there’s still 72 more holes to play. On this day, we’re going to complete the Don Barth trifecta by playing both Bear Mountain Ranch and Desert Canyon — a 36-hole day we’ve done multiple times as a day trip from Western Washington, but one that’s even sweeter when you can tee off at Bear Mountain at the crack of dawn and watch the sun’s first rays spread over the lake.

While golfers may quibble with some of Barth’s design at BMR — most notably the many blind shots, including a tee shot at No. 1 that plays blind over a ridge, requiring most players to pull mid-iron — nobody argues with the scenery. One USGA course rater who visited shortly after the course first opened in 2005 called it the most scenic course in the lower 48, and it definitely has more jaw-dropping moments than any other track in the state. The entire course sits high on a slope on the lake’s south side, with cascading views down across acres and acres of vineyards to the lake below, then back up the vineyard-covered slopes of the lake’s north side. Whenever we run photos of Bear Mountain Ranch in the magazine, golfers ask us, “Is that place for real?” It is, and if you’ve played it, then you’ll understand why it annually receives more first-place votes from our readers than any other course outside the top-10 (in 2017, BMR placed 15th). There’s nothing else like it in the state.

Bear Mountain Ranch, Chelan

Bear Mountain Ranch, Chelan

Photo by Rob Perry / robperry.com

Though, Desert Canyon comes close. About a half-hour down the road from BMR, on the eastern shore of the Columbia River, Desert Canyon offers many of the same features that make BMR so memorable — the endless views, impeccable conditioning and a creative design. Choosing between the two is really just a matter of personal preference. Desert Canyon counters Bear Mountain’s memorable holes with some unforgettable ones of its own, routed across two nines with distinctly different feels. The Lake nine, usually played as the front, is more resort-y than its companion, with the extra water you’d expect from the name, and a few more properties lining the fairways. The Desert nine, meanwhile, is more rough and rugged, and features Desert Canyon’s signature hole, the 690-yard, downhill, par- 5 sixth (typically played as No. 15). OK, you don’t have to play it at its full 690 — come all the way forward to the white tees, and it’s a measly 632.

After a burger at Wenatchee’s famed EZ’s Burger Deluxe — paired with a shake in one of 21 different flavors — lay down your head and dream one last night’s worth of golf vacation dreams. Because tomorrow, it’s time to go home.

But, not without getting in one more full day of golf. DAY 7 starts in East Wenatchee, looking down across the river to the valley below from the tee boxes at Highlander Golf Course. Originally designed in a Scottish links style, Highlander has been reimagined in bits and pieces over the last decade into a resort course, with all-new bunkers, trees and water features, and a complete redesign of the course’s back nine. Always a sucker for a pretty view, our favorite holes are two that play across gaping canyons on the ridge’s edge — the par-3 ninth and the short, par-4 17th. The former is one of the most intimidating tee shots in Washington, while the latter is a fantastic, risk-reward delight that we saw fit to put on the cover of our magazine the year after it opened. If it’s been a while since you last played Highlander, go back; if you’ve never been, put it on your list.

Highlander Golf Club, East Wenatchee

Highlander Golf Club, East Wenatchee

Once you’ve walked off the 18th green and given one last look down the cliff’s edge to the Columbia below, continue your drive on the Cascades Loop — with minor side trips, you’ve been on it this whole time — and head west on Highway 2 to America’s favorite Bavarian mountain getaway. Laden with tourists no matter the time of year, who pack Leavenworth’s tiny front street to enjoy shopping, beer gardens and bratwurst by the shovelful, Leavenworth is a great spot to grab lunch before your afternoon round at the local muni. If it’s beer and burgers you want, the Rhein Haus is a great pick, with an outdoor patio overlooking the town. If soup and sandwiches hit the spot, the no-frills Soup Cellar is always a good bet.

So is Leavenworth Golf Course, which has evolved with the town around it from a dinky little nine-holer with sand greens back when it was still catering to coal miners and loggers in the 1920s, to an 18-hole championship course with a well-earned reputation as one of Washington’s top mountain tracks. Just 5,699 yards from the tips, it won’t ask much of your driver, but it will ask you to deftly manage its small, fast greens, which provide its best defense against low scores.

When you reach the tee box at the par-3 fourth — the most remote part of the course, hard along the banks of the Wenatchee with only the No. 3 green in the near vicinity, take a moment to stop and close your eyes. Inhale a deep breath of the cool, crisp mountain air, and just listen. Those sounds you hear — the gurgling river, the rustle of the trees, the call of a bird … that’s peace.

This is the feeling to hold onto once you’ve left this place, pointed the car west, and made the scenic, winding two-hour drive back to civilization. This is the feeling you came here for. This is the magic that we all need.

Trip 2: Eastbound & Down

TOTAL TIME: 7 Days

DRIVING DISTANCE: 740 miles

Wine Valley Golf Club, Walla Walla

Wine Valley Golf Club, Walla Walla

Maybe you’re feeling a little more adventurous. Maybe you want to take in a Cougs game or visit friends and family in Spokane on your trip. Or, maybe you just really like spending time in your car. Either way, do we have the trip for you.

DAY 1 begins with an 80-mile drive to one of our favorite destinations in the entire state, and a must-play for us every single summer — Suncadia Resort. With two 18-hole championship courses open to the public, and a third open to residents and members, there’s more incredible golf within the footprint of Suncadia than anywhere else in Washington state.

It doesn’t matter which of the two public courses you play first, but make sure you play them both before continuing your journey east. Prospector — a fixture in CG readers’ picks for the state’s top-10 public courses — is the older of the two, and the one that’s usually busier on a typical summer weekend. Routed across the ridges on which the Suncadia Resort resides, Prospector is a thrilling blend of elevated tee shots, risk-reward par-4 and -5s, and tree-lined fairways that immerse you in your surroundings. There are no fewer than four opportunities for even a moderately long hitter to take a shot at eagle — the par-4 fifth, requiring a daring drive across a lake to a green roughly 270 yards away; the par-4 10th, with its unforgettable elevated tee box; the par-5 11th, just 465 yards from the white tees; and the par-5 18th, a 496-yard dogleg left with a downhill approach that can be landed short and run onto the putting surface. While No. 10 is the shot you won’t forget — with sweeping views of the mountains and valley below — there will be no shortage of holes stuck in your memory when you leave.

Prospector Golf Course at Suncadia Resort, Roslyn

Prospector Golf Course at Suncadia Resort, Roslyn

Photo by Rob Perry / robperry,.com

The experience is much the same at Rope Rider. Built atop the old No. 9 and No. 10 mines from which coal miners pulled black gold for the better part of a century, Rope Rider pays homage to its past not only in its name — the term “rope rider” refers to miners who would straddle the hitches between mine carts as they descended into the shaft, and tug on a rope when the cart was full to indicate that it was time for miners at the shaft exit to pull the cart out — but also in its design. The entrance to the No. 9 shaft can be seen from just outside the clubhouse (which doubles as the home for Swiftwater Cellars winery), while the course’s most memorable stretch of holes wrap around Tipple Hill, a massive pile of coal tailings left behind when the mines were shuttered.

It used to be that you’d tee off on No. 1 looking directly out at Tipple Hill, and start your round with two risk-reward opportunities in the first three holes. Since opening in 2012, however, the nines have been reversed; no worries, the risk-reward opportunities remain. The 11th is a 462-yard par-5 with water down the right-hand side, but certainly reachable in two for even a medium-length hitter. It highlights a front nine that is reminiscent of the holes at Prospector, albeit with wider fairways and fewer trees. It’s that second nine, though, where Rope Rider’s identity comes alive. Both the 485-yard 10th and heavily bunkered, 275- yard 12th are reachable; with a 118-yard par-3 in between them, there’s a realistic chance to go birdie-birdie-birdie right out of the gate. It’s also possible to cut the corner and leave yourself a sand wedge approach at the 390-yard 15th, before making that epic turn to the final three holes winding around Tipple Hill.

Plan to spend the night at Suncadia and you won’t have to rush your departure. Instead, grab a bite at the Hoist House restaurant in the Swiftwater Cellars section of the clubhouse, and sample some of the wines being crafted right on site. You may have thought you weren’t in wine country yet, but this is Washington, friend — it’s all wine country. Drink up.

DAY 2 is your driving day, but don’t worry, there’s some great golf to be played along the way. Start by rolling out of bed early and making your way 90 minutes east to Moses Lake, home to The Links at Moses Pointe. It’s often left out of stories about the great golf in Central and Eastern Washington, but that’s certainly not for a lack of quality. It’s more a matter of location; while a golfer can plan trips to Chelan, Spokane, Walla Walla or even Suncadia and find an abundance of great courses within a relatively small footprint, Moses Pointe sits all by itself on the shores of Moses Lake, a little less than halfway between Ellensburg and Spokane, and seemingly a lifetime away from anywhere. That isolation, though, works in its favor; once you’re out on the course, it’s just you, the little white ball and the flag, just as golf’s sadistic creators intended. It’s fitting, then, that Moses Pointe would be a Scottish-style track, its fairways and greens undulating in rhythm with the rolling farmland around them. With firm, glassy putting surfaces and tall native grasses swallowing errant tee shots, Moses Pointe can be a testy bugger, but accuracy and a soft touch will lead to good scores.

The Links at Moses Pointe, Moses Lake

The Links at Moses Pointe, Moses Lake

Photo by John Johnson

Hopefully you played well, because it’s another 100 miles to Spokane, our stop for the night. Depending on how early you left Suncadia, you might be able to squeeze in an evening round at one of Spokane’s famed municipal tracks; if not, use that time to head over to The Flying Goat for pizza and a beer before checking in at The Historic Davenport, in operation since 1914.

DAY 3 is a callback to last month’s feature on all the incredible golf in and around Spokane — take your pick from city courses Indian Canyon, The Creek at Qualchan, Esmeralda and Downriver, or county tracks MeadowWood, Liberty Lake and Hangman Valley. They’re all spectacular, and they’re all less than $50. If it helps, our readers ranked Indian Canyon (No. 17 in the state, just ahead of Rope Rider, Druids Glen and Loomis Trail), Qualchan (No. 21, one spot ahead of Newcastle’s Coal Creek) and Hangman Valley (No. 24) highest in 2019, with MeadowWood not far behind. Pick two and make as make as many birdies as you can; shoot, if you’re feeling really ambitious (and are younger and more limber than we are), pick three.

Now, DAY 4 gives you some options. Certainly, when you’re this close already, it’s hard to resist the urge to duck across the border to play Coeur d’Alene Resort, just 30 minutes away. But then, if you do, you’re also going to want to drive 45 minutes south to play Circling Raven, and now you’ve used up a whole day — or two, if you’ve also chosen to take some recreational time on the lake, or at the Silverwood Theme Park just short drive up Highway 95. The reality is — as we laid out in last month’s issue — you can basically pitch camp in this area and get sucked in for days on end, branching out from Coeur d’Alene to Spokane, Circling Raven, Palouse Ridge and Silverwood, and coming back each afternoon to frolic on the lake.

On this trip, though, we’re not looking to settle down in one spot and call it good. We’re on the move.

So it is that on Day 4, while some of you may indeed choose to wander over to Coeur d’Alene, we’re instead driving 90 minutes south to ply the fairways of Palouse Ridge, quite possibly America’s best collegiate golf course. The nice thing about coming straight to Palouse, without an earlier stop, is that you can get there early enough to play it twice — and, trust us, you’ll definitely want to play it again. In his all-too-brief life, John Harbottle built just two courses from scratch in Washington — Gold Mountain’s Olympic and Palouse Ridge. If you’ve played either one, then you have a sense of the quality of the experience you’re in for at the other. Palouse Ridge swaps Gold Mountain’s tight fairways and towering trees for broad landing areas and the rolling hills of the Palouse, but otherwise, the signature is there. Fun holes that challenge the golfer’s thinking; creative bunkering that tests better golfers; and views from elevated tee boxes that will truly take your breath away. The Cougs may never win another Apple Cup, but as long as they have Palouse Ridge, they can be satisfied that their Husky friends are consumed with envy.

Palouse Ridge Golf Club, Spokane

Palouse Ridge Golf Club, Spokane

Photo by Rob Perry / robperry.com

Having already played Washington’s No. 8 (Prospector) and No. 7 (Palouse Ridge) courses on this trip, it’s time to climb a few rungs up the ladder on Day 5, and make your way two hours southeast to Walla Walla, and Dan Hixson’s Wine Valley Golf Club (No. 3).

One look down the fairway at No. 1 is all you need to know you’re in for a unique experience — two large, natural bunkers border a generous fairway, which merges seamlessly with the second fairway coming back up the hill. The challenge at Wine Valley isn’t off the tee – nearly all of the fairways are wide open, what little rough exists is trimmed short, and the long native grasses that frame each hole only come into play on severe mishits (and even then, it’s not too difficult to find and play your ball, at least in the early part of the season). The challenge, instead, is placing your tee shot in the right part of the fairway to give yourself the ability to put your approach shot close to the pin — because if you don’t, hoo boy.

Fairway undulations put a premium on finding the power slots and level lies, but each of Wine Valley’s greens offer multiple means of attack. Typically fronted by a bunker on just one side, your best bet on most is to run the ball on from the apron on the other side and use the natural undulations of the green to guide the ball to the pin. Otherwise, you’re left carrying that bunker to massive greens that are firm, fast and deadly. Fail to get close and you’ll find yourself making putts you simply don’t attempt anyplace else — turning your back to the hole and putting up a slope 90 degrees right of the pin to try and feed the ball back down; tapping a 12-footer a mere 4-5 inches in the hopes that it will stop near the hole; or, intentionally over-hitting a putt to run it past the hole, letting the slope bring it back to the pin. The first time we played it, one of our staff members shot 88 — with 44 putts.

Only Chambers and Gamble offers a similar true links golf style, with broad fairways, bump-and-run approaches, large greens and natural-edged bunkers. Only Suncadia’s Tumble Creek and Sahalee Country Club offer similar conditioning, with fairways so perfectly manicured that just taking a divot feels like vandalizing a work of art. And, only the great Central Washington courses — Gamble, Prospector, Desert Canyon and Bear Mountain Ranch chief among them — offer the same sense of exhilaration, of complete immersion in a getaway golf experience unlike any other. It’s quite possible that the only thing preventing Wine Valley from being No. 1 in our CG reader rankings is the fact that not enough have made the drive over to play it.

Wine Valley Golf Club, Walla Walla

Wine Valley Golf Club, Walla Walla

If you want to, play it again. Or, head into Walla Walla and taste our state’s glorious grapes until your heart’s content. Walla Walla Vintners, aMaurice Cellars, Doubleback Winery (owned by Coug legend Drew Bledsoe), Pepper Bridge Winery, Leonetti Cellar and Dunham Cellars are some of our favorites. But, we’re talking Washington wine here — you can’t go wrong.

DAY 6 provides more choices. Your objective is Yakima, two hours to the west (assuming, of course, that Yakima County’s current restrictions have been loosened), but how you get there is up to you. You could play another morning round at Wine Valley, then wine-taste your way along I-82, stopping in tasting rooms in the Tri-Cities, Prosser, Benton or Zillah, all home to a number of outstanding wineries. Another option would be to play 18 or even 36 holes in the Tri-Cities, where Canyon Lakes, Sun Willows, Columbia Point and Horn Rapids are all terrific options (Canyon Lakes was ranked No. 23 in the state by CG readers last year) before making your way west. Or, you could double-down on your Dan Hixson experience and drive over to Desert Aire Golf Club, just northeast of Yakima, and play a round on the banks of the Columbia River.

Whichever path you choose, DAY 7 brings 36 more holes of fun, and puts your head on your own pillow by bedtime. We start at Apple Tree, a course that never fails to put a smile on our face. While its never cracked our readers’ top-10 (Apple Tree ranked 13th last year), it annually receives more first-place votes than many courses that do — while not as many golfers have played Apple Tree compared to some of the more well-known Western Washington tracks, those that do love it.

Even if you’ve never been there, you are likely familiar with Apple Tree’s apple-shaped island green, complete with a leaf-shaped bunker and a footbridge stem. Second only to Coeur d’Alene’s floating green among the Northwest’s most iconic golf course images, the apple green is every bit as fun to play as it is to look at; so many golfers stop to take photos and hit extra shots from the hole’s elevated tee box that the course has had to erect a sign reminding players to please keep it moving out of courtesy to the groups behind them.

Apple Tree Resort, Yakima

Apple Tree Resort, Yakima

But, it may not be the hole you end up claiming as your favorite. The par-4 first is a great way to start your round; by the time you reach the par-5 third and par-4 fourth, you’ll be playing your shots amidst an active apple orchard, its smaller, fruit-laden trees a stark contrast to those you’re used to hitting from underneath in Western Washington. The beauty of the apple orchards on the front nine is matched only by the water hazards and white-sand bunkers of the back — the green complexes at the 11th and 14th holes are among the prettiest in the state, while the steeply-sloping 16th hole, and the 463-yard, par-5, risk/reward 18th team with the island green to form one of our favorite finishing stretches.

Grab a quick lunch in the clubhouse and make the 80-minute drive back to Cle Elum. No, we’re not making a second stop at Suncadia (I mean, unless you know someone who can get you on at Tumble Creek, the resort’s private course); instead, we’re heading across I-90 to Sun Country Golf Resort, the last stop on our journey, and one you won’t want to skip.

It’s quite possible you’ve noticed Sun Country before without realizing it — just east of Keechelus Lake, almost due south across the highway from Suncadia, is an old, faded sign high up on a ridge with faded block letters reading, “GOLF COURSE.” A hidden gem squirreled away in the shadow of its much more famous neighbor, Sun Country wouldn’t be out of place across the street, tucked among the Suncadia homesites alongside Prospector and Rope Rider. It’s shorter than either, at 5,507 yards, but is kept in terrific shape, particularly in the late summer when the Northwest sun is at its peak. Fairways tumble down from elevated tees to firm, fast greens, holes dogleg around stands of tall firs, and cool mountain creeks and ponds challenge several approaches.

What makes it the perfect place to end our epic adventure, though, is that it’s simply a fun round of golf. A handful of short par-4s and reachable par-5s give even mid-handicappers the thrill of going for the green, while the water, trees and uneven lies create enough challenge to hook a better golfer. You’ll likely make a birdie (or two), you’ll enjoy some terrific mountain views, and you’ll breathe in that crisp, refreshing, pine-scented air, all for barely $40.

You started this trip in the mountains, and it’s to the mountains that you’ve returned. Home is less than 90 minutes away. Before you get in the car for that final drive, though, reflect on where you are, where you’ve been, what you’re doing and the people you’ve chosen to do it with. In doing so, you’ll fully appreciate how lucky you are.

TRIP 3: Sound Explorer

TOTAL TIME: 7 Days

DRIVING DISTANCE: 356 miles

Gold Mountain (Olympic Course), Bremerton

Gold Mountain (Olympic Course), Bremerton

Photo by Rob Perry / robperry.com

The Peninsula trip is perfect for the golfer who isn’t too keen on the idea of driving 500-plus miles to all corners of the state, but still wants to play the highest concentration of great golf that Washington has to offer.

That would be the Peninsula, ranked by our readers as Washington’s No. 1 golf destination. This trip starts with a drive around the south end of the sound to Salish Cliffs, where Gene Bates crafted a thrill-ride every bit on par with his effort at Circling Raven just a few years earlier. We’ve dedicated so many column inches to Salish Cliffs over the years that we don’t need to tell you much more — it’s the No. 5-ranked course in the state, and one of the few courses we’ve never rotated out of our Cascade Golfer Cup lineup. Our players love it, our staff loves it, and just about everyone we’ve ever talked to agrees that you won’t find a more well-maintained or fair test of golf in the state. And, we love a good risk-reward hole — we dedicate a whole section to them in each issue. Salish has at least four (and as many as six depending on how far you hit the ball), including the first two holes and the 18th, giving you a chance to both start and finish your round with a smile.

Just up the road in Union is Alderbrook Resort, a tree-lined respite with occasional vistas of the Sound below. It’s our second stop for the day, but where you go from here is up to you. You can grab a room or cottage at the resort and be treated to luxurious trappings overlooking the Hood Canal; or, you can head back south to Salish Cliffs and hit the tables at the Little Creek Casino Resort before calling it a night. A stay at Alderbrook saves you from having to double back, and saves you about 20 minutes of driving time on Day 2; a stay at the Little Creek can be packaged with the golf to save money on both, and gives you the chance to do some high rolling with your buddies before hitting the sack. Decide what works best for you and your group, and make the most of your first night out on the road.

We’re going to go ahead and combine DAYS 2 AND 3, because there are four great courses in the Bremerton/Port Orchard area, and you’re going to play them all over the next two days. The most acclaimed track in the area is John Harbottle’s Olympic Course at Gold Mountain, which has been dropping jaws left and right since opening in 1996. Whenever we have out-of-town guests that want to know what Washington golf is all about, we take them to Gold Mountain. The natural beauty; the towering trees; the deep, blue water features; the gently rolling fairways, the creatively contoured greens; the elevated tee boxes; the immaculate conditioning; and the incredible views — it’s all here, in one near-perfect 18- hole circuit. Our readers have never ranked the Olympic lower than fourth in the state; by value, it’s definitely No. 1. While you’re there, be sure to also play its sibling, the Cascade Course — sure, it’s been relegated to a life of playing second fiddle, but that’s no fault of its own. The Cascade is to the Olympic like Scottie Pippen is to Michael Jordan — you can’t deny that one’s better than the other, but they’re both to be admired.

For our second day in the Bremerton area, we’re playing the other two tracks that make golfers on the other side of the Sound so jealous of those that get to live here fulltime — Trophy Lake and McCormick Woods.

Stretched out to its full 7,040-yard length, McCormick Woods can challenge the shotmaking ability of any golfer, particularly with its many doglegs, bunkers, water hazards and tall trees forcing players to think before they swing. Those many doglegs, though, also give the high-handicapper with a decent short game a chance to score. That’s because driver — the club most likely to get a high-handicapper in trouble — is often not the play when teeing it up from the shorter (6,165 yards) white tees.

A perfect example is Hole No. 12, a par- 4 with a dogleg right around a small pond. Better golfers can fade a driver from the elevated back tee to the fairway below, bisecting the pond and a bunker on the opposite side. From the shorter white tees, though, a hybrid or even a well-struck 5-iron will leave a short iron uphill to the pin. Both players are thus given a good look at par, while also allowed to utilize strategies equivalent to their skills.

We’re playing it first specifically so that we can grab lunch in McCormick’s clubhouse restaurant, easily one of the state’s best (the Mac and Cheese is a CG favorite, especially when paired with a local microbrew).

Playing McCormick Woods first also allows to take advantage of one of the best bargains in the state — $42-$48 greens after 5 p.m. at Trophy Lake, and just $22-$37 for Oki cardholders. Even at peak times, Trophy never tops $100 — one can’t help but think that if it were on our side of the Sound, greens fees would be more in line with other high-quality Oki tracks like Washington National or the courses at Newcastle. Trophy beats all of them in our in-state rankings, but comes in $20-$140 cheaper per round. A John Fought design (Indian Wells, Sand Hollow, Crosswater and, yes, Washington National), it shares many of the features that make those courses great — particularly, creative bunkering and green designs that force players to think before making each shot, and frequent elevation changes that make club selection tricky. At 465 yards from the white tees, its 18th hole isn’t only one of the prettiest in the state (indeed, it’s proven good enough to grace our cover), but also a chance to put an eagle or birdie on the scorecard at the end of your round, if you’re brave enough to try and carry the creek that bisects the fairway and green. Of course, if you’re taking The Ultimate Washington Golf Road Trip, we have a hunch you’re the adventurous type. Pull out that fairway wood and let ‘er rip.

White Horse Golf Club, Kingston

White Horse Golf Club, Kingston

Photo by Rob Perry / robperry.com

DAY 4 dawns bright and early with a morning round about 40 minutes up the road at White Horse, in Kingston. As you pull into the parking lot, you might see golfers getting off the shuttle that brings walk-ons from the Edmonds-Kingston ferry to and from the course, at no extra charge.

Cynthia Dye McGarey built the original 18 at White Horse, but it wasn’t until new owners the Suquamish Tribe brought in John Harbottle — yes, he of Palouse Ridge and Gold Mountain (Olympic) fame — to soften up the edges in 2012 that golfers truly fell in love. Harbottle tore out over 200 trees (mostly around the green complexes) to provide more light and air to the greens and tee boxes and promote a healthier, more player-friendly surface. He also stripped out 62 bunkers, softened green approaches and leveled many fairways in the areas where mid- and high-handicappers are most likely to hit. That effort has allowed the course’s strong bones — most notably, rolling fairways cut from a dense Northwest pine forest; unique and memorable holes that included uphill, downhill and sidehill shots; and some of the best eye candy in the region — to shine, while reduced greens fees and a fabulous new clubhouse have only enhanced the experience.

One of the state’s driest courses, it’s the rare course in our state’s top-10 that’s just as good in December as it is in July. Of course, December doesn’t leave enough sunlight for a second 18 — and, that’s just what we have on the agenda.

First, though, we’re going to make a pit stop for a quick lunch and a brief history lesson. Smack in between White Horse and Port Ludlow — our ultimate destination for the day — is Port Gamble, a mill town that has graced the shores of the Hood Canal since 1853, the same year the Denny party founded “The Town of Seattle” on the eastern shore of Elliott Bay (and 36 years before Washington officially became a state). Today, it’s preserved much as it was before the turn of the century — the 20th century, that is. A National Historic Landmark, Port Gamble is filled with shops, homes and New England-style buildings that transport travelers back to a simpler time. While many simply drive through (slowly — the speed trap here has burned many a careless driver), it’s worth a stop to grab lunch and browse a few shops before hopping back into the car.

The Resort at Port Ludlow, Port Ludlow

The Resort at Port Ludlow, Port Ludlow

By the time you do, you’re just 15 minutes from The Resort at Port Ludlow, which marks not only our second round of the day, but also the spot where we’ll be resting our head for the night. We expounded on Port Ludlow for two-thirds of a page just last month — here’s a link to the full review — so we won’t go too deep into it here. Suffice to say, it’s a blast to play, has some outstanding views, and has been significantly renovated since a change in management a few years back. Pair your round with a stay at The Inn at Port Ludlow and you’ll save money on the golf, and get to enjoy an incredible meal — no lie, the dinner we ate at the Inn a few summers back is one of the best we’ve ever had — and a comfy night’s sleep in front of a cozy fire.

Don’t get too comfy, though — we’re barely halfway done. Day 5 brings a drive up the Salish Sea coast to Sequim, and an early round at The Cedars at Dungeness. It’s good to get to Cedars early if you can — not only will you beat the rush that can swarm the course on a sunny late-morning or early afternoon, but you’ll also avoid the winds blowing off the Strait of Juan de Fuca that wreak havoc with golfers’ club selection later in the day. A relatively flat and open front nine gets tighter and hillier on the back; and, while there are certainly a few par-4s that will give you the chance to have a wedge or short-iron approach to the green, the par-5s are all business, with two at or above 550 yards, and a third — the 509-yard sixth — played directly into that prevailing wind.

Finish early enough to grab lunch at Stymie’s, one of our favorite spots in the state to pick up a burger and a beer. After that, we’re turning the car around and heading back to Port Townsend — while we’re eager for someone to build a Bandon Dunes-style course out on the Washington coast, for now, it’s practically a golf ghost town until you wrap all the way around to Ocean Shores — a three-and-a-half hour drive away. No, thanks.

The Cedars at Dungeness, Sequim

The Cedars at Dungeness, Sequim

Instead, we’re playing our second round of the day at Discovery Bay, a local favorite five miles outside Port Townsend. When we say “local favorite,” we mean it — while out-of-towners are busy driving up to Dungeness, or prowling the many celebrated courses farther south, this is where Peninsula residents can usually be found. In fact, they’ve ranked it as the Peninsula’s best course for three years running, in large part due to its high quality, low rates and laid-back vibe. Designed by Mike Asmundsen (who also designed The Home Course), it has two distinct nines — the front nine, or “farm nine” is more open, with fewer trees but plenty of long grass to trouble wild swingers. The back nine, or “forest nine,” is tighter, as its name would suggest, with more elevation changes. Both offer golfers a fair mix of birdie and eagle opportunities, plus plenty of chances to put a big number on the scorecard with a misplaced shot.

If you finish in the late afternoon or early evening, you’ll have plenty of time to drive up to nearby Port Townsend and check out the Fort Worden State Park, as well as the numerous shops and restaurants downtown. Like Port Gamble, it’s one of Washington’s most historic towns, and an easy place to get lost for a day or more browsing shops and visiting historical sites. We’re spending the night here, and taking a lazy day tomorrow, so feel free to move about town at your leisure and soak it all in — or, if history isn’t your thing, drive down to the nearby 7 Cedars Casino and try your luck at the tables.

In the morning, grab a coffee and breakfast at The Courtyard Cafe, then jump on the ferry for a quick ride over to Whidbey Island. While the first five days of your trip have been all golf, golf, golf, after fivestraight 36-hole days, you could probably use a break. Today, therefore, is about slowing down and appreciating what’s around you.

We start at Fort Casey, where as recently as World War II, soldiers scanned the horizon 24 hours a day for invading ships coming down the Strait. Along with the aforementioned Fort Worden and nearby Fort Flagler, enemy positions could be triangulated and targeted with 10- inch guns, some of which are still on display. Walking through the catacomb-like gun emplacements, bunkers and batteries, you can almost feel the ghosts of those earlier times; reading the many historical placards throughout the fort, you can also learn some of their stories. A walk up to the top of the Admiralty Head Lighthouse is also a must before heading off to another recreational activity — kayaking. Several different companies offer guided kayak tours from Langley, Oak Harbor and other locations around the island (choosing to kayak and stay in Oak Harbor will set you up best for your final day of golf); you’ll learn about the island’s history, and encounter seals, dolphins, eagles and maybe even an orca or two, if you’re lucky.

Of course, you can always skip DAY 6 if you want and move straight to DAY 7 — the home stretch. For this one, we don’t have to leave Whidbey Island at all. We’re starting at Whidbey Golf Club, a formerly private course that has recently opened its doors to the public. It’s another one we just wrote about recently, so we’ll simply link you to that story here, and let you know that Whidbey has some of the finest greens in the region, and is well worth the drive even if you’re not simply wrapping up an Ultimate Golf Road Trip.

Whidbey Golf Club, Oak Harbor

Whidbey Golf Club, Oak Harbor

For your final round, you have a few choices. One option is to drive just a few minutes up the road to Gallery Golf Course, a fun little 18- hole track owned and operated by the U.S. Navy. Not only will you be treated to a solid round of golf at a reasonable rate, you’ll also get to spend a few more hours looking out across the Strait to Vancouver Island, and you may even be buzzed by the occasional fighter jet coming home to NAS Whidbey. Likewise, you can also continue driving north, stopping off at Deception Pass for photos, a quick hike and/or a bite to eat at The Shrimp Shack, before playing a second 18 at Swinomish Golf Links (another delightfully scenic and enjoyable course nestled between Similk and Fidalgo Bays) or Avalon, just up I-5 in Mount Vernon.

By the time you pull the car back into the garage, you’ll have played 12 rounds of golf — including four of the top-10, and five of the top-11 courses in the state, as rated by CG readers) passed through some of- Washington’s most historic sites, communed with nature from a kayak, and, just maybe, won enough at the tables to cover your nut. And, all in the same amount of driving you’d do going to Portland and back.

It’s possible — shoot, probable — that other states have epic golf adventures of their own. But, we’re comfortable saying that none offer the variety, history and adventure of ours. Take one of these three trips, or take them all — either way, The Ultimate Washington Golf Road Trip is whatever you make of it. Just get out there and make it happen.